Barranco, Lima. Photo courtesy of Santi LLobet via Flickr.
If you want some reprieve from Lima’s maddening traffic and noise, look no further than the southern neighborhood of Barranco, a place to enjoy the Pacific coast in an artsy, village-like atmosphere — the perfect antidote to Lima’s concrete jungle.
Barranco began as a seaside getaway for Lima’s wealthy and famous at the end of the 19th Century, who built summer homes here to escape the baking hot summers of the metropole. The neighborhood quickly became the preferred hangout of poets, writers, painters and sculptors, and today Barranco is considered Lima’s most romantic and bohemian district.
Despite the modern construction shooting up all around its bordering neighbourhoods, Barranco has managed to maintain its village-like, bohemian charms. Being only about 10 square blocks in size, Barranco is easy enough to cover on foot, and there are plenty of wonderful walks. The Bajada de los Baños, for instance, is a beautiful walkway that runs through Barranco all the way to the sea, bordered on both sides by grand houses. It is crossed over at one point by the Puente de los Suspiros, or Bridge of Sighs, a famous meeting place for lovers. Another great stroll is down Cajamarca street, one of the best places to see Barranco’s most colorful houses, including Number 212, a great spot to buy handicrafts and artisan goods such as tapestries and ceramics. In addition to the colorful houses, street art is in abundance throughout the neighborhood, adorning the walls and the facades of the low-storey homes
There are 14 art galleries you can visit in Barranco, the most celebrated being the Mario Testino Association, the first permanent exhibition dedicated to the internationally-renowned fashion photographer in his hometown. It’s also worth wandering randomly around, stopping in for a drink and a bite to eat at the many atmospheric bars and restaurants, or visiting quirky sites such as the dilapidated but beautiful La Ermita church or the Electricity Museum. You can even take free public dance classes in the Parque Principal.
Many nightclubs are also located in Barranco, making for a great evening away from Lima. This includes discos, bars and peñas (clubs that offer folkloric music shows), in particular Afro Peruvian and Criollo gigs. On weekends, Barranco holds ‘A Taste of Barranco’ food festival, where outdoor tables are filled with every imaginable Peruvian dish (all reasonably priced) and local musicians come to play.